Previously at the ICA - Events

Turkina Faso, Back Home With Alice, 2016. Courtesy the artist

Defining a Post-Soviet Aesthetic in Fashion

22 Mar 2017

This discussion is followed by a drinks reception in the studio, where looks by Artur Lomakin and Asiya Bareeva will be on display.

Fashion historian Djurdja Bartlett (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London) presents a panel discussion featuring Moscow-based designers Asiya Bareeva and Artur Lomakin, photographer Turkina Faso and London-based writer and curator Anastasiia Fedorova.

The seamless assimilation of Soviet iconography and 1990s Russian streetwear into high-end fashion collections seen in London, Paris and Milan is a defining phenomenon of recent years. Termed ‘the post-Soviet aesthetic’ by the style press, when consumed by moneyed westerners these designs raise critical questions with regard to the ethics of class tourism and cultural revivalism. Perhaps wittingly-so, there is now a move by the likes of designer Gosha Rubchinskiy to eschew the well-worn western catwalks in favour of drawing the fashion set to Russia itself.

Presenting designers working and showing in Russia and a Russian photographer working world-wide, the panel explores the current climate for making and the interests of new generation of designers and artists that grew up in the shadow of the Soviet era, seeking to define what a ‘post-Soviet aesthetic’ might truly be.

Drawing inspiration from the grey anonymity of Moscow’s suburbs, stylist-turned designer Artur Lomakin’s signature heavy-knit sweaters and knitted balaclavas are representative of deliberately minimalist aesthetic. In contrast, Asiya Bareeva is known for her romantically-layered garments and accessories, preferring an abundance of prints and collaging of clashing materials. Photographer Turkina Faso is re-shaping the classic editorial, presenting personal documentary stories that explore how the experience of adolescence has changed in her native Russia since the fall of the Soviet Union.

Supported by Russian Talks Circle.

Speaker biographies

  • Djurdja Bartlett

    Djurdja Bartlett is Reader in Histories and Cultures of Fashion at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. She has widely published and lectured on the theme of fashion during socialism and post-socialism. Bartlett is author of FashionEast: The Spectre that Haunted Socialism (2010) and editor of the volume on East Europe, Russia and the Caucasus in the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion (2010).

  • Asiya Bareeva

    Asiya Bareeva is a Moscow-based designer. Bareeva studied art history, ceramics, visual arts and drawing at art school before graduating from the Kosygin Architecture Institute and Textile University in Moscow. Moving between the professions of architecture and design, she started working at the design bureau of Olga Romina in 2008, before starting to work as a stylist in 2010. In 2013, she began creating romantic and delicate jewelry with Japanese polymer clay, mostly neckpieces and headpieces, and selling them in showrooms in stores in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Bareeva won the Russian Silhouette award in 2013.

  • Artur Lomakin

    Artur Lomakin is a stylist turned fashion designer. In 2010 he founded Forget Me Not. The brand has shown at PREVIEW during Cycles&Seasons Fashion Week in Moscow and has garnered reviews in Russian and international style press including Vogue.ru, Elle.ru, Dazeddigital.com, Vice Style and Wallpaper.

  • Turkina Faso

    Turkina Faso is a Russian photographer and journalist. She graduated from MA Fashion Photography course at London College of Fashion in 2016; in 2011 she graduated from Moscow’s Institute of Journalism and Literature and in 2009 graduated from Institute of Contemporary Art, Moscow. She has been working as a photographer since 2006 and within fashion photography since 2012.

  • Anastasiia Fedorova

    Anastasiia Fedorova is a writer and curator based in London, and a regular contributor to Dazed, i-D, 032c, Vice, SHOWstudio and The Guardian. After moving to London in 2012, she worked as an editor for The Calvert Journal and wrote extensively on the rise of post-Soviet aesthetic in fashion, and the work of the new wave of Russian and Eastern European fashion designers, artists and photographers. She is also a guest chair for panel discussions at SHOWstudio, Nick Knight's innovative platform for fashion film and broadcasting.

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